Update

Sylvia Ji

So I just realised it has been quite some time since I updated this blog. I mostly keep my music blog, From A Whisper To A Scream, updated, and sometimes post at my general interest blog, Into The Fire. But poor old Life In Ruins sits here dusty and neglected! And most of the posts are about resources. These are more for my own usage - seeing as I cant just print them all off and put them in my Mexico folder (yes, I have a folder of clippings and brochures LOL) – although I'm sure anyone stumbling across this blog and with plans to travel to Mexico will find something of use. So I thought I would update what our progress with planning this trip is. we still have a few years before we go (I have to figure out what to do for my birthday, seeing as this is the mile stone of Linda’s 30th birthday, and she is born the year after me - maybe my trip around Australia, but I want to do that sooner - maybe somewhere in Southeast Asia.. I'd love to check out some of the Thai sites I researched for my archaeology thesis).

Okay, we plan on taking a few months and travelling all through Mexico. I want to use the stop over in America to meet some close friends I've made in America - particularly Gail and Sid in NJ and April who is currently in CA. So we will probably extend the time we spend in the States... I have other friends as well, but those three, and particularly the first, are those I really want to meet. Sid has suggested meeting up in Mexico which could be fun! Hell, if we talk April into this crazy plan, it will be like being back at CYN! They were crazy fun times! Ironically all those three were friends through Proboards... god I miss my forums... *daydreams* on that topic, does anyone know of any good travel forums? maybe specifically aimed at travellers to Latin and Central America? Anyway, we are planning on travelling for about three months - we haven’t planned all of our itinery yet, but we definitely want to travel around to all the ruins... poor Linda, having to tag along... It’s a good thing she has a minor interest in culture/history LOL Because I plan to go to every Mayan ruin I can access, and see if I can sneak in some of the Aztecs and maybe a few other indigenous culture remains. I also want to get in contact with a university or museum who are running a project in Mexico, and see if I can get a couple of weeks on a dig. I think I want that to be my travel focus, wherever I go :D i.e. go to Thailand, do some excavation (that’s were my thesis was based), go to Peru, join a dig, go to China/India/Spain/UK etc. I don’t see the point of going to a country if I don’t immerse myself in the culture and history. Like the people who go to somewhere like Cancun for a few days to do tequila shots in a bar playing tinny American pop. I'll do the tequila, but the rest has no appeal to me. I guess it’s the archaeologist and anthropologist in me. I'm fascinated by culture and societies’ forms of interaction and self expression. We are going there specifically for Día de los Muertos/Day of the Dead celebrations, but that is apparently a very private festival, so I guess we may end up going the commercial tourist route for that one. Unless I make some close Mexican friends before then LOL okay, I guess that means I need to do the archaeology digs before November ;-p


Linda and I have both bought material to learn Spanish. Mine if an Oxford Press Central and Latin American Spanish course. It cost me about $100, and includes a lot of extras. They had Spanish language packs for cheaper, but I figured I was better to get something tailored to the region I want to visit. I've been slack following through with it though, but I have years before I visit, so the pressure isn't on yet. I still don’t know what I will be doing about a camera. I want to follow my muse, but there is a problem with theft, and apparently it is safer not to have a camera (yeah right, me, without a camera?!?), so my other thought was to take up film photography again. I mean take a cheap digital camera, but have a decent (but ancient - i.e. less appealing) film camera for art purposes and post all the film back weekly. I prefer digital though. I don’t know. I wonder how other people deal with this dilemma. I guess it’s a matter of weighing up risk. We aren’t rich, and will be buying things like packs and sleeping bags in advance so we can break them in... New = rich apparently? According to some of the things I have been reading anyway. I have no idea, but I know even in Australia someone is more likely to steal something pristine than something scuffed, scratched and dusty. We don’t want to be easy marks. I want to look into self-defence courses as well. I should anyway. I grew up with a brother, so I can hold my own in a fair fight. But if someone goes to mug you they don’t fight fair. I don’t fight fair, but I don’t fight dirty either LOL I need to at least know how to get away, and know instinctively. At the moment I just know the theory. So on the cards are some sort of self defence courses so I can get away if someone tries to grab me. I'm not being an alarmist, I'm just being practical.

Anyway, this is my thinking on our trip so far. I’m saving, learning Spanish, planning to take self defence courses, planning my equipment (I’m a packrat, this could be the hardest part) and trying to decided on a solution for my photography... we will be insured up the eyeballs, etc (both have had medical issues in the past, so cant be too careful - a week in hospital was horrible enough in the biggest city in Australia - I shudder to think what it would be like in a rural Mexican hospital). I’m also trying to decide what book to take with me. You know me; I read more than 5 books a week! Imagine taking just one book for a full 3 month holiday... what am I gonna do! I mean I can keep an eye out for English fiction in Mexico, and exchange books with other travellers etc, but I still need to decide what book will be my saving grace. At the moment I am thinking my complete works of Jane Austen or complete works of William Shakespeare - just because there are so many pages. I don’t know... they are also heavy and cumbersome. This voracious bookwyrm will have trouble with the concept, believe me! Just one book over 3 months?

Calakmul Epigraphic Research Project

Calakmul was largest city of Classic Maya civilization and one of the dominant powers in the complex geopolitics of this culture period.

http://www.penn.museum/research-american-section/298-calakmul-epigraphic-research-project.html

Mayans - interactive map

Maya Rise & Fall

Explore 15 key Mayan sites that archaeologists and historians are using to piece together the story of this once great civilization.

http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2007/08/maya-rise-fall/map-interactive

Thighbones Were Scepters for Ancient Zapotec Men?

From: http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2009/07/090715-zapotec-thighbones-femurs.html

Charles Q. Choi
for National Geographic News

July 15, 2009

For men of the ancient Zapotec civilization, ancestral thighbones may have been carried as status symbols.

Based on centuries-old stone carvings in southern Mexico, archaeologists had long suspected that Zapotec men brandished human femurs.

"The thought was that the femurs are those of the ancestors of the rulers, serving like staffs of office or symbols of legitimacy," explained archaeologist Gary Feinman of the Field Museum in Chicago.

Now grave excavations have confirmed the practice, according to a new study. What's more, it seems that commoners got a leg up too.

Flourishing from about 500 B.C. to A.D. 1000 in the Valley of Oaxaca, the Zapotec were contemporaries of the ancient Maya and Aztec. (See "Zapotec Digs in Mexico Show Clues to Rise and Fall.")

Prior excavations had revealed a Zapotec tomb where nine femurs were missing. But the skeletons were a bit of a jumble, so it wasn't clear whether the bones had been taken or had simply gone missing.

Theory No Longer Out on a Limb

The Zapotec often kept their dead relatives close to home—sometimes even at home.

At a dig earlier this year at a fortress near the ancient town of San Pablo Villa de Mitla (map), Feinman and colleagues discovered an adobe-lined storage pit underneath an excavated house.

Inside was an adult male skeleton that was virtually intact, save for a missing right femur.

"This find is fantastic—it corroborates what was inferred before," said archaeologist Javier Urcid of Brandeis University, who did not participate in the new study.

Populist Power Symbol?

There are signs that the circa-A.D. 500 pit had been opened and then resealed about 25 to 100 years after the initial burial. Since the house appears to have been occupied continuously during this time, whoever reopened the pit was probably a relative, the researchers suggest.

"I believe removal of the femur from a male was one way the ancient Zapotec asserted dynastic continuity," said archaeologist Joyce Marcus at the University of Michigan, who did not participate in this study.

"It seems likely that each firstborn son was expected to brandish the femur of his father. The removal and curation of a femur signified that an unbroken line of descent extended from the founder to his descendants."

The newfound burial was simple and modest, suggesting the buried man was not an elite, although he might have been the head of a household, Feinman suggested.

"It raises the question as to whether femurs were used as a broader symbol of legitimacy that anyone with even a little bit of power held onto."

Tips for Women Travelers to Mexico

By Suzanne Barbezat, About.com http://gomexico.about.com/od/planningandinformation/tp/women_tips.htm

Although men and women have equal rights by law in Mexico, and more and more women work outside the home and hold public office, traditional ideas still dominate in many areas. This should not deter you from traveling to Mexico on your own. You can have a great time and learn a lot, just remember that your safety is your top priority and consider these tips to avoid harassment and stay safe.

Dress like the locals

Mexicans tend to dress conservatively, and if you would like to avoid unwanted attention, it's a good idea to do likewise. In coastal areas, shorts and tank tops are acceptable, but inland, women usually wear pants or skirts.

Arrive during the day

If at all possible, get a flight or bus that allows you to arrive at any new destination with enough daylight hours left in the day for you to find your hotel and get oriented.

Look like you know where you're going (even if you don't)

Don't stand on the street looking at your map or guidebook. Ask for directions at your hotel or in a store or restaurant. Write down the directions, or draw a small map on a piece of paper that you can consult without other people noticing.

Ignore catcalls

If men call out to you on the street, the best thing you can do is to just keep walking, don't respond and avoid making eye contact. Any response by you, even a negative one, will be seen as an invitation to continue the interaction.

Put your safety before your budget

Choose a hotel in an area that feels safe to you, even if it costs more. Your security and comfort are worth it, and you will enjoy your trip a great deal more.

Curb your alcohol intake

If you're traveling on your own, you need to keep your wits about you. Drink only in the company of people you trust. Remember that at higher altitudes you may feel the effects of alcohol more rapidly.

Beware of "gabacheros"

This is a term used for a Mexican man who makes a career out of pursuing foreign women. He may want sex or the things a foreign woman can afford: dinner in nice restaurants, a trip to the beach or even to her country. If you enjoy the company and don't mind footing the bill, go ahead, just don't be fooled about his intentions.

Learn a few phrases

If you don't speak Spanish, at least learn a few phrases that you can use if you are being harassed. The phrase "Estoy esperando a mi esposo," (I'm waiting for my husband) works surprisingly well to get rid of unwanted suitors.

Also, know how to ask for help: "Ayudeme, por favor." Say this directly to someone nearby if you're being harassed and need help. Many Mexicans will avoid getting involved in a situation unless they are asked directly.

More Spanish phrases for travelers.

Practice general precautions against theft

Don't wear expensive jewelry and keep any valuables in your hotel's safe or carry them on your body, under your clothes. Keep your money in a few different places. Wear comfortable shoes so you can run if necessary.

Read more about Mexico travel safety.

Trust your instincts

If a person or situation feels uncomfortable, get away fast. Don't worry about being rude. Your safety is so much more important than being nice.

Bus Travel in Mexico

By Suzanne Barbezat, About.com http://gomexico.about.com/od/planningandinformation/a/bus_travel.htm

Bus travel in Mexico can be efficient, economical and comfortable. The main consideration when contemplating bus travel is the distances involved. If you're planning to cover a lot of ground you may want to consider air travel - Mexico is a big country!

Classes of Service

There are several different classes of bus service that run from luxury coaches to the "chicken buses."

Luxury "De Lujo" or "Ejecutivo"
This is the highest level of service, offering all the comforts of first class, plus some added amenities. In some cases the seats recline fully and there are only three seats across instead of the usual four. Refreshments may be served. Often you will have the choice of listening to the video through headphones instead of being forced to listen to it as on most first class buses.

First-class "Primera Clase"
These buses have air-conditioning and reclining seats. Many show videos and have a toilet on the bus. These generally provide non-stop service on federal toll highways where available. They offer transportation to popular destinations and cities but generally do not offer service to small towns.

Second-class "Segunda Clase"
In some cases second-class buses depart from a different bus station than first class buses. Some offer direct or express service, but the generally stop to pick up and drop off passengers along the route. There are generally no reserved seats and when the bus is crowded some passengers may ride standing up.

Second class bus service offers transportation to villages and destinations that first class buses don't alwas cover and may be a good choice for short trips. Second-class buses are more colorful, drivers often decorate the front of their buses, and vendors may get on and off. Riding on second class buses can offer you a glimpse into the life of poorer Mexicans and yes, it's possible that your seat buddy may be carrying a chicken.

Mexican Bus Lines

Different bus lines serve different geographical areas and offer varying levels of service.

ETN (Enlaces Terrestres Nacionales)
Comfortable "ejecutivo" class buses serving central/northern Mexico.
Web Site: ETN

Estrella de Oro
Connects Mexico City with the Pacific coast (Ixtapa, Acapulco), as well as serving Cuernavaca and Taxco.
Web Site: Estrella de Oro

Omnibuses de Mexico
Serves northern and central Mexico.
Web Site: Omnibuses de Mexico

ADO
Serving central and southern Mexico, the ADOO group offers a few different classes of service, from Primera Clase, GL (Gran Lujo) to UNO, the most luxurious option. Check schedule and fares through the Ticketbus Web Site. Also offers a bus pass for 7, 14, 21 or 30 days. See ADO Bus Pass.

Mexico Bus Travel Tips

On weekends and holidays it may be necessary to buy your ticket a few days in advance (48 hours is usually sufficient).

When purchasing your ticket you will often be asked your name - if your name is non-Hispanic it may be helpful to have it written down so you can just show it to the ticket salesperson. You may be shown a graph of the bus and get to choose your seat.

Air-conditioning is sometimes excessively cold so take a sweater. Occasionally the air-conditioning breaks down, so wear layers that you can remove.

For long trips take food and water with you.

Videos shown on long-distance buses in the past were incredibly bad and violent B-movies from the U.S. This seems to be changing a bit and there is now a greater range of movies being shown.

Most towns have one main bus terminal, but some may have different terminals for second and first-class buses. Mexico City, however, has four different bus terminals which serve different destinations throughout the country. Check our guide to Mexico City bus stations.

Happy travels!

Mexican Día de los Muertos Celebrations

From http://gomexico.about.com/od/festivalsholidays/p/day_of_the_dead.htm

Mexican Día de los Muertos Celebrations:

Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos), celebrated between October 31st and November 2nd, is a celebration in which Mexicans remember and honor their deceased loved ones. Though it may sound gloomy or morbid, it's not. It's a festive and colorful holiday. Mexicans visit cemeteries, decorate the graves and spend time there - in the presence of their deceased friends and family members. They also make elaborately decorated altars (sometimes called ofrendas) in their homes to welcome the spirits.

Origins of Day of the Dead - a merging of cultures:

In Prehispanic times the dead were buried close to family homes (sometimes in a tomb underneath the house) and there was great emphasis on maintaining ties with deceased ancestors, who were believed to continue to exist on a different plane. With the arrival of the Spaniards and Catholicism, All Souls' and All Saints' Day practices were incorporated into Prehispanic beliefs and customs and Day of the Dead came to be celebrated.

The belief behind Day of the Dead practices is that spirits return to the Earth for one day of the year to be with their families. It is said that the spirits of babies and children who have died (called angelitos, "little angels") arrive on October 31st at midnight, spend an entire day with their families and then leave. Adults come the following day.

Day of the Dead Altars:

The spirits are greeted with offerings of food and things that the person enjoyed in life. These are laid out on a Day of the Dead altar in the family home. It is believed that the spirits consume the essence and the aroma of the foods that are offered. When the spirits depart, the living consume the food and share it with their family, friends and neighbors.

Other items that are placed on the altar include sugar skulls, often with the person's name inscribed on the top, pan de muertos, a special bread that is made especially for the season, and cempasuchil (marigolds) which bloom at this time of year and lend a special fragrance to the altar.

See photos of Day of the Dead altars.

In the Cemeteries:

In ancient times people were buried close to their family homes and there was no need to have separate grave decorations and home altars, these were together in one place. Now that the dead are buried away from their homes, graves are decorated with the idea that the dead return there first. In some villages flower petals are laid in paths from the cemetery to the home so that the spirits will be able to find their way.In some places it is customary to spend the whole night in the cemetery, and people make a party of it, having a picnic supper, playing music, talking and drinking through the night.

Day of the Dead and Halloween:

Day of the Dead and Halloween have some commonalities. They both come from early cultures' beliefs about death that later mixed with Christianity. They are both based in the idea that the spirits return at that time of year. Customs around Halloween seem to stem from the idea that the spirits were malevolent (children were disguised so that they wouldn't be harmed), whereas in Day of the Dead festivities, the spirits are joyfully welcomed as family members that one hasn't seen in a year.

Day of the Dead continues to change, and a mixing of cultures and customs continues to occur. Halloween festivities are becoming more prevalent in Mexico: masks and costumes are sold in the markets alongside sugar skulls and pan de muertos, costume contests are held along with Day of the Dead altar contests in schools, and some children dress up in costumes and go trick-or-treating ("pedir muertos").

Where to celebrate Day of the Dead:

Day of the Dead is celebrated in different ways in different places. Festivities tend to be more colorful in the south of Mexico, particularly in the states of Michoacan, Oaxaca and Chiapas. In rural areas celebrations are mostly solemn whereas in bigger cities they are sometimes irreverent. There are a few destinations that are well-known for their Day of the Dead observances.

Top 5 Day of the Dead Destinations

Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos) is a time when people remember and honor their deceased loved ones, with the idea that the spirits return on this one day of the year to be together with their families. Festivities take place in cities and villages throughout Mexico, though each location may have different customs and ways of honoring their dead. You can witness Day of the Dead celebrations anywhere in Mexico, but here are a few of the places where festivities are particularly colorful.

1. Mixquic, Mexico

© Federico Mena-Quintero

Mixquic, located in the Tlahuac Delegation of Mexico City (southwest of the Mexico City center) has been geographically swallowed up by Mexico City but retains the ambience of a rural village with strong indigenous roots. Street stalls are set up in the days before the celebrations. A procession through town with a cardboard coffin leads the way to the cemetery where a candle-light vigil will take place.

2. Janitzio and Patzcuaro, Michoacan

Janitzio is a small island in Patzcuaro Lake and is easily reached by boat from Patzcuaro. The island is home to the Purepecha indigenous group (sometimes called Tarascans) who have elaborate Day of the Dead rituals. There are processions and music, folk dances are performed and families gather in the cemetery to spend the night chanting and singing. Perhaps the most impressive sight is the fishermen in their rowboats with torches lighting up the lake.

3. Oaxaca, Oaxaca

Visitors to Oaxaca during Day of the Dead can visit colorful marketplaces in nearby villages (the Friday market in Ocotlan is outstanding), witness vigils in a variety of cemeteries and take part in night-time carnival-like processions called comparsas. There are also sand tapestry competitions and Day of the Dead altars set up throughout town.

More info about Oaxaca:

• Oaxaca City Guide
• Oaxaca Photo Gallery

4. Merida, Yucatan

In the Maya language Day of the Dead celebrations are referred to as Hanal Pixan, which means "a feast for the souls." Families gather to prepare a special seasoned chicken tamale wrapped in banana leaves (called pibipollo), which is cooked underground in a pit. The dish is enjoyed by both the spirits, who are believed to consume its essence, and the living, who enjoy the real thing! There are also festivities in the streets and cemeteries.

More info about Merida:

• Merida City Guide
• Read about Merida's Day of the Dead (Hanal Pixan) celebrations

5. Chiapa de Corzo, Chiapas

This pleasant colonial town on the Rio Grijalva is 12 km from Tuxtla de Gutierrez. For Day of the Dead the cemetery is decorated in a lively manner with colorful ribbons, flowers and candles. There is live music in the cemetery as families serenade the deceased on their short-lived return.